Sunday, March 5, 2017

Favorite Moments Around London



London is massive, and with so much to see, it's important to prioritize and plan. My mom and I are list-makers, and had come up with a massive list of everything we wanted to see and do while in London. However, after our first day we realized that wasn't going to work. Many of the experiences we wanted to have were more than just, "Walk by and snap a picture" experiences, and they were spread out all over the city. Sitting down with a physical map, finding everything we really wanted to see, and linking places that were close to each other helped us to make a more do-able itinerary that still allowed for aimless wandering through the lovely city.

More than anything, my trip to London was special because it was spent with my favorite people in the world. Can you believe that it was our first real vacation as a family since 2010? Our first trip together as adults, and it was spectacular. As incredible as it was to see everything, my favorite times were all the little moments; sitting at the table with my mom, pouring over a map in an intense research session; my dad coming back from his morning adventures laden with coffee and treats; taking a quiet nighttime walk along the river; waiting with my sisters before getting into the London Eye. Those little moments are going to stick with me forever!

My favorite people


That said, though the options are endless, and there are some sites we just didn't have time for, our four days were packed and full of London excitement. Our itinerary was as follows:

Day One 

Big Ben and Parliament

Our first day in London was spent acquainting ourselves with our neighborhood, and exploring some of the cities most iconic sights. Where better to start than with Big Ben!? Interestingly, what most of us call "Big Ben" (the bell tower/clock) isn't actually Big Ben- Big Ben is the name of the bell! The clock tower is called Elizabeth Tower. Somehow, it doesn't have the same ring to it.

Westminster Abbey

It started drizzling as we strolled around parliament, so we hopped into line at Westminster Abbey. At £20 each, the price of admissions was a little shocking at first glance (especially since there were five of us). However, when you consider the history that has taken place there, the astounding architectural achievement that went into it's creation, and the effort that's needed for the upkeep, it doesn't seem too unreasonable. Once inside, the abbey was visually overwhelming. Every angle was fighting for our attention; look up for arched ceilings and stained glass windows, look down for the burial stones of artists, authors, and other figures who have shaped Britain's culture. The ornately decorated walls have seen coronations of royals since 1066 (most recently, Queen Elizabeth II in 1953), and sixteen royal weddings since 1100 (most recently Prince William and Princess Kate in 2011). They hold the remains of King Henry III, Queen Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scotts (whom I ADORE due to the amazing show Reign), Charles Darwin, Sir Isaac Newton, and memorials to Jane Austen, Lord Byron, and Martin Luther King, Jr. 

The most touching memorial was the tomb of The Unknown Warrior, which brought me to tears. Thinking about all who are lost in war, and the idea that any family who lost someone could imagine it held their loved one, is just so moving. 

Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace has been the official residence of Great Britain's monarchs since 1837 and is just as grand as you'd expect. The wrought-iron gate that surrounds the palace is decorated with the royal coat of arms, which has both a lion and unicorn on it. As someone who is always on the hunt for unicorns, that was extra exciting. During my trip to Scotland, unicorns were on EVERYTHING in Stirling Castle, which I've learned is Scotland's national animal... so I'm assuming the lion stands for England, the unicorn for Scotland. We did not see the changing of the guards, but did spot a few of the fuzzy-headed queen's guard men marching slowly around the yard. We couldn't imagine actually living somewhere so huge- it would be so difficult to find anyone!


Day Two

The Tower of London

I've always loved reading historical fiction, and Tudor/Elizabethan England were my introduction to the genre. My mom has the same literature preferences, and has absolutely devoured every book she's found on that time period. Needless to say, the London's rich history completely fascinated us. We spent a morning on a self-guided tour of The Tower, which I somehow hadn't realized was absolutely massive. The main "tower" was a pretty quick stop, but it took us at least three hours to navigate the nooks and crannies, exhibits, and passageways of the immense complex. Arrive as early as you can, as this is a huge attraction and can get busy quickly. 

Though horrified that my girl Mary (Queen of Scotts) was imprisoned here for the last years of her life, we were enthralled by the daily life in the castle. You could see graffiti painstakingly carved into the walls by medieval prisoners, and walk through exhibits depicting the exotic animals that once stayed in the different rooms (one of the kings had a pet polar bear). I wish so badly that I could time travel and just observe how people lived- but only if it was guaranteed that, 1) I would NOT be a peasant (that life was tough), 2) everyone would like me/not behead/imprison/torture me, and 3) I could come back. My dad always loves seeing the old weaponry and armor, so we both loved/were disgusted seeing the battle gear. 

When we first arrived we were told that the room holding the Crown Jewels had closed, which was really disappointing. Luckily, it opened back up because OH MY GOSH, they were truly inconceivable. I've seen what I thought were big diamonds, but those on the crowns were so enormous, so sparkly... they truly need to been seen to be believed. Beyond just the jewels themselves, some of the tableware was also on display. There was a giant, pure gold, castle-shaped figure that particularly intrigued me. I couldn't figure out what it was, but eventually read that the extravagant, multi-drawered, multi-tiered sculpture was for salt. That's what they kept their salt in. Like, to sprinkle on their food... The sheer opulence of that room was staggering. 

Also, there are ALWAYS at least six ravens at The Tower. They're a little bit gross and scary, and eat 170g of raw meat ever day, in addition to biscuits soaked in blood. Yuck! I had no idea how big they were, either- these are pretty huge birds! Apparently, legends say that at least six ravens need to be at the Tower at all times. If they were ever to leave, the Tower and the kingdom would fall. 






Leadenhall Market

The next stop on our journey was Leadenhall Market. Though it was completely lovely, I had been envisioning more of a "market," full of stalls and vendors. Leadenhall is a Victorian covered market, is similar to Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, or Brussels' Galleries Royales Saint Hubert. Though we didn't make it to the Warner Brother's Harry Potter Studio (there was so much else to see!), Leadenhall is a destination for any Harry Potter fan, as it was the filming location for much of Diagon Alley's outdoor shots. There is a distinctly Gryffindor atmosphere, as the two stories of shops and restaurants seem to glow red and gold. 


Our visit coincided with Storm Doris, a super intense windstorm that ravaged Great Britain, and blew us around like crazy. As we contemplated where to go after our stop at the market, a gust of wind like I've never felt before swept through the cross of halls, sending chairs (and nearly us!) tumbling away. When I was little, I had this fear that if winds ever were at more miles per hour than I weighed in pounds, I'd blow away. My fear resurfaced, as the wind was so intense that it pushed and pulled at us to the point where we could hardly control how we moved! That said, we stopped for lunch there in an attempt to wait out the wind. 


Harrods 

The part in "Parent Trap" when Annie's mom asks her if she wants to spend the day getting lost in Harrods has had visions of a maze-like store swirling in my head since I was 9. Harrods in reality did not disappoint. This was probably the only part of the trip where my family and I split up to explore. I spent a good part of an hour lost, trapped in the never-ending home decor and furniture floor, mindlessly walking from one perfectly decorated room to the next. If you're interested in seeing the one-of-a-kind shopping center, my favorite parts were the food halls and the Egyptian escalator. Both are worth seeing, even if you don't plan on dropping thousands of dollars on designer clothes. 

Day Three

The London Eye

To be perfectly honest, the Eye somehow hadn't made my list of top London priorities. Being up that high sounded terrifying, and it's a more recent attraction, so I hadn't really thought much about it. But while I might not have been dying to travel to the top of the 443-foot Ferris wheel, it was at the top of both of my sisters' lists. I'm not sure if it was arriving right at the time it opened, or if it was the fact that we hadn't pre-booked tickets, but we waited for a VERY long time. The lines were constantly moving, but the entire experience (from arriving at the Eye to getting off at the end) took us at least 2.5 hour. Hopping into the moving "bubble" was pretty scary, and I definitely made every effort not to look straight down. Yet once we were looking out over the Thames, down at Parliament, Big Ben, and the rest of London spread out beneath us, the fear and the wait were definitely worth it. 





Trafalgar Square

Trafalgar Square commemorates (what else) The Battle of Trafalgar, and is full of monuments and sculptures. We loved the lion sculptures, and were hoping to get a touristy picture with them, but the platforms they sat on were much higher than they appeared! A group of French girls had the same idea, and hoisted each other up, taking photos one at a time. When they saw us struggling, the came rushing over and lifted my sisters and I up (with a "un, deux,  trois") so that we could all get one together! You've gotta love the kindness of strangers!

Covent Garden

Covent Garden is what we were hoping we'd find when visiting Leadenhall. The roads leading up to the market are full of tiny gift, book, and antique shops, and quaint pubs. We happily strolled along the sunlit paths before finally arriving at the Apple Market, the center stalls of another covered shopping center. The stalls were bursting with artwork, crafts, and flowers. Everything from paintings to jewelry, stone tiles, to hand-knitted hats called out to us. The shops themselves were darling as well; we spent time finding gifts and souvenirs, and browsing through an Alice in Wonderland themed tea shop. We loved the area so much that we returned for dinner that night!  


Day Four

Notting Hill


For our last day, we journeyed out to Notting Hill to visit the Portobello Road Market. Oh my gosh, it was the antiquing and vintage shopping heaven! The darling area is documented in the Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant film of the same name, and the market is actually one of the most popular in the world. While I read that the market varies from day to day, and there is always a variety of stalls to browse, Saturday is the most popular day to visit for both locals and tourists. I can easily see why, between the vibrant vintage goods, lovely ceramics, talented street performers, and more.




Some Things to Eat

I've always gotten a kick out of the names of some of London's popular dishes, but man oh man, Bubble and Squeak is like pierogies turned into mashed potatoes. If you're ever in London, some must-tries are: 
  • Sunday Roast
  • Yorkshire Pudding
  • Fish and Chips
  • Bubble and Squeak
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding
  • Mushy Peas
  • Curry
  • Bangers and Mash
  • Any sort of savory pie

Thursday, March 2, 2017

San Francisco and Las Vegas



San Francisco with Krista

Over the summer, I was reminded that should/when I move back to the United States, there are plenty of amazing cities to travel to. For my birthday, my parents booked me a ticket to see one of my sisters in San Francisco, California. Before she moved to San Francisco, we had visited together for an overnight trip and loved it. Now that she lives there, she was able to show me around her fabulous city. 



We explored Chinatown on my birthday, the United States' first true Chinatown. San Francisco weather is quite a bit chillier than Rochester summers, but my gosh, when that California sun is shining, you couldn't pay me to stay inside! We strolled up and down the streets, paper lanterns fluttering above our heads, picking through the souvenirs that were propped up outside of the shops. We each bought a bracelet, mine red with gold designs running through it, as well as some small paintings. Everything smelled spicy, sweet, and fried- we spent some time searching for a restaurant with the highest health/sanitary rating we could find. Beyond that, we checked out cute restaurants and bars, enjoying a ridiculous amount of appetizers before heading back to her apartment for more candy than we could possibly eat. 

On days when she worked, I would start the day at the Starbucks across the street and wander on my own. The hills are like none I've ever experienced, and it was pretty exhausting. I didn't stray too far out of my comfort zone as I didn't have a map (or wifi), but walked down to the Bay and around her neighborhood. Her puppy came with me for my walks; that's another thing to look forward to for someday- having a fur baby! 


While I haven't had much trouble with flights within Europe, I have had infinite trouble in the United States. My flight was delayed until the middle of the night, which worked out well. We went out with some new friends, grabbing nachos and drinks (and then more drinks) out on the town. As it delayed more and more, we just took that as a sign to stay out as late as we wanted! The flight ended up being canceled and rerouted, including an 8-hour layover. Ugh! Luckily for me, the stop was in Las Vegas, another city I've never been to, which meant I had an unexpected adventure!

Las Vegas Layover


The Las Vegas Strip is surprisingly close to the airport, so I took a taxi to one of the casinos and checked my bag before carrying on into the city. Oh my gosh, it is unbelievable hot in Las Vegas! I didn't actually gamble, but did explore The Venetian, The Bellagio, Cesaers Palace, and Planet Hollywood. One of my good friends also happens to live there, so I got to see Vegas beyond the strip with him and his girlfriend (including the house they'd just closed on!). While it was unexpected, it added an element of spontaneity to the trip, as well as a feeling of good fortune that my layover was long enough to do some exploring. 


Monday, February 6, 2017

How to Spend a Long Weekend in Brussels


In my last post, I spoke about a website/app I use when I'm searching for a new place to visit, but am not quite sure where to go. Before a long weekend I had back in December, Odaliz and I looked on Skyscanner and found an inexpensive flight to Brussels (after Tallinn, inexpensive was key!). Neither of us wanted to go on a long trip, but we knew we wanted to go somewhere for a few days. Between the price and the promise of Christmas Markets, Brussels was calling our names!

Brussels was the perfect long-weekend city. It's small enough that you can get the feel of it in just a few days, but there is plenty to do. I would have loved to stay even longer and make a few day trips out to Ghent or Bruges, but this time stuck to just Brussels. Everywhere we went we heard French, though official languages also include Dutch and German. Fun fact: Of Brussels' 176,124 inhabitants (as of October 2015), 63,757 are international/foreigners! That's over a third of the population! Other fun fact: My idol, the late, great, Audrey Hepburn, is from Brussels!

Things to See, Things to Do, Things to Eat


Grand Place

Every city seems to have it's own stunning plaza (or piazza in my bella Italia), and Brussels is no different. Well, maybe a little different- Brussels' Grand Place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for it's incredible and unique blending of architectural styles. When standing in the square, you find yourself surrounded by Gothic, Baroque, and Louis XIV style architecture, all historic fragments that represent how Belgium's culture has been shaped over time. The square was once the main marketplace of Brussels (called Nedermarckt). Every two years, the August heat is punctuated by a spectacular flower installation. Nearly one million begonias are arranged in patterns resembling a Turkish carpet, spanning a 77x24 meter space. The square's history isn't all rainbows and flowers, however. It's also where witches and protestants were burnt at the stake, and criminals executed. Luckily for us all, this is no longer the case...

We were treated to the loveliest surprise one night while admiring the view from the center of the plaza. As we struggled to take an "In Front of the Tree Selfie" (which we never succeeded in getting), the lights suddenly all went out. A second of confusion, another second of worry, and then the plaza filled with loud music, accompanied by a light show on the faces of the buildings surrounding us! It was completely breathtaking. I cannot imagine the amount of work that must go into perfectly timing the lights not only to appear and disappear in sync with the music, but also in perfect harmony with the different shapes, windows, and details of each building! There was one point that was disorienting because the lights were flashing red and blue, making it feel like parts were popping out and changing shape! I didn't manage to get very good videos because the entire show was almost hypnotizing, but  I will never forget standing next to that giant Christmas tree with such awe.


Manneken Pis 

While Brussels is a government headquarters, home to the European Commission, European Parliament, the headquarters to NATO, even the capital of the European Union, it is not a humorless city- far from it! One of the city's main tourist attractions is a hilarious and slightly ridiculous bronze statue of a little boy peeing into a fountain. Dressed up in seasonal costumes regularly, stolen and recovered multiple times since it's creation in 1619, this little guy has been through it all. 

Legends of his origin vary, but are all fascinating. One tells of a two year old lord in 1142, brought into battle by his troops and placed in a tree to keep safe, as well to boost morale. The little lord supposedly urinated down on the opposing troops, and now reigns as a symbol of just how the Belgian people feel about would-be-oppressors. Another tells of yet another siege, this one during the 14th century. The attackers planned to use explosives to gain control of the city, but were unaware they were being spied on by a little boy named Julianske. He peed on the fuse, saving the city from disaster. There are many more, but I like these ones the best, as they speak to the rebellious and resilient nature of the city. 

The Atomium

Standing at an incredible 335 feet tall, The Atomium has been a symbol for Belgium and for Brussels since it was first erected in 1958 for the World Fair. The original plan was that the installation would last for 6 months, but it was so popular that it has stood for nearly 60 years! Each of the nine spheres span 60 feet in diameter, representing the nine atoms of a iron crystal unit cell, magnified to 165 billion times its actual size. Five of the spheres are open to the public and used as a museum, with the top sphere offering what might be the most impressive panoramic view of Belgium. The lines look long, but move quickly. Our view was marred by the day's gloom, but the structure was very impressive, and it was interesting to wander around the outside, as well as inside the spheres.


Galleries Royales Saint Hubert

Oh my gosh, Odaliz and I stumbled upon the most beautiful shopping center- the Galleries Royales Saint Hubert. The stunning gallery reminded me of Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, but I read that Brussel's Gallery was the first of it's kind, dating back to 1847- even before Vittorio Emanuele! The vaulted glass ceilings, which looked bright blue in the evening light, made it Europe's the first covered shopping gallery. Every shop called to us with festive, sparkling window displays. We went into a few; a lovely chocolate shop that glittered with sparkling candies and adorable little tins (for some reason, I LOVE tins!), and an amazing jewelry shop where I literally wanted to buy everything. Seriously, I was completely obsessed with everything at Les NĂ©rĂ©ides, and when you hear this you'll get why: Every single piece was either fairytale inspired, or bright, delicate flowers. After much deliberation, I picked up the prettiest pair of earrings, which make my ears look like a garden. 


Eat All the Waffles

Check it off The List! We gobbled up waffles both the first and last mornings in Brussels for breakfast, as well as sharing one for dessert the second day. Oh my gosh, they were everything I could have hoped for and more! There are two types of waffles to be on the lookout for, and I'd suggest trying both (obviously) for comparative purposes. Brussels Waffles are thinner, lighter, have smooth, rectangular sides, and deep holes. Liege Waffles are thicker and stickier, made with caramelized chunks of sugar that result in the most delicious sweet and crispy coating. They aren't quite as smooth as a Brussels waffle, and the edges are more uneven. Personally, I think I preferred the Liege waffle- every bite was so amazing, though I will say that I was so uncomfortably stuffed after eating one, which I didn't feel after a regular Brussels waffle. I'll leave you to make your own decisions. 



Drink All the Beer

Whether you're a beer lover or not, there is something for everyone to try in Brussels. The best place to start is at Delirium Beer Bar, a quick walk away from the Grand Place. Like Temple Bar in Dublin, Delirium is really a small series of bars that appeal to different crowds, all offering a massive selection of beers. They earned themselves Guinness World Record recognition in 2004 with the greatest variety of beers available at a bar in the world- 2,004 types! Since then, they've added tons more and are now over 2,400! The atmosphere reminded me of a college bar, not fully due to the age of the crowd, but rather the friendly, loud, excited group of travelers.

Maison Dandoy

When I first saw the name of this darling, family run sweet shop, I read it in the most American way possible- just as it's written: May-zon Dan-doy. I'm embedding this video because I want you to listen to the last 10 seconds, just so you can hear the precious little babies saying this as it should be said in their beautiful French accent. The rest of the commercial is pretty cute too. Go on, I'll wait...
Anyways, as you could see, Maison Dandoy is the most delicious smelling, delectable-tasting shop I could ever imagine. I was so stuffed full of waffles that unfortunately I did not try one here, but it was a lovely spot to stop for a coffee and a few pieces of gingerbread, as well as to pick up a selection of cookies to bring home for my family. I especially loved the vanilla cookies, but you can ask for them to put together a bag with a variety if you'd like to try everything!



Moules Frites

Who knew that trying mussels in Brussels was a thing to do?! I hadn't known, but moules-frites, or mussels and fries, is considered Belgium's national dish! I'm trying my hardest as I've lived abroad to be less picky about what I eat. A few years ago, I don't think you could have paid me to eat mussels, clams, oysters, or anything of the sort. Now, however, I'm trying to be open to testing things out. I would hate to miss out on the experience just because I'm squeamish or picky! The fries are incredible, and I really enjoyed the mussels as well. We stopped for lunch at Drug Opera, a beautiful restaurant in Brussel's city center. As we were visiting in December, the restaurant couldn't have been more festive, full of Christmas greenery and twinkling lights. The wood paneling gives it a cozy pub feeling, but fancier. I absolutely loved it! The portion of mussels was large enough for Odaliz and I to split (with tons left over), and we split a waffle as well, but as for fries... fries are not shareable. You can never have enough fries!




Christmas Festivities

Thanksgiving through New Years truly is the most wonderful time of the year! The festivity of the Christmas season is just pure magic. Though Skyscanner's prices were our initial draw to Brussels, another huge factor was the CHRISTMAS MARKET!! Oh my gosh, the smell of mulled wine, the twinkly lights, ice skaters, and booths that look like gingerbread houses... I just love them so much! I have to say, I didn't love the market in Brussels as much as I loved the ones in Germany or Estonia, but it was wonderful nonetheless. Besides the main market, there were other streets throughout the city lined with booths, as well as smaller markets spread throughout the littler plazas. We found one with an Asian theme, where the little gingerbread booths sold noodles, and a place where you could buy Alsace-style mulled wine.

At the main market we found the most interesting merry-go-rounds, with strange steam-punk style ships, planes, bugs, and other kooky seats for the kids to ride in place of the usual horses. Vintage images of naked women adorned the tops, which would NEVER fly on a kids ride in the USA, but while they were slightly creepy (for lack of a better word), they were also fascinating. One had a giant dinosaur whose back you could climb onto, as well as a spaceship and hot air balloon. I've never seen anything like it! 

Brussels is truly a great city for a few days of exploring. Small enough to feel comfortable, but large enough to never be bored, I left Brussels feeling like I'd seen a ton, but with a desire to return. Hopefully someday that will happen!
SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave
SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave
SaveSave